Michel Roux has one word for foul-mouthed TV chefs ... Pah! His Waterside Inn has retained three Michelin stars for 19 years without resorting to such antics. So what's the food like? Don't ask Rachel Cooke - she just got sandwiches.
From the layers of a croissant, the crust of a baguette and the bite of a good mustard, our rigorous testers, Michel Roux and Alan Holmes led by Jay Rayner, leave no stone unturned in their quest for perfection.